Adroît, “Vincenzo Vineyard” Old-Vine Carignan Supply

Adroît, “Vincenzo Vineyard” Old-Vine Carignan

Master Sommelier Chris Miller, previously the Wine Director at Spago in Beverly Hills, is now the proprietor and winemaker at Seabold Cellars in Monterey, California. He spends most of his time crafting Burgundy-inspired Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from cool-climate Monterey fruit, but he created Adroît as a home for “experimental” projects and wines from under-appreciated grape varieties. 

“Vincenzo” is one of several historic (and Certified Organic) sites farmed by the Graziano family in Mendocino County. Acquired by namesake Vincent Graziano in 1918, it contains Carignan vines ranging in age from 70-100 years. Its high elevation and moderate climate provide a long, even growing season for the late-ripening Carignan. Soils combine clay-loam and sandstone.

Aiming for a bit less density than is the norm, Miller fermented this 2019 using 100% whole grape clusters and only ambient yeasts. Bunches were foot-crushed and sealed up in stainless steel tanks with CO2, to facilitate a “carbonic” maceration (as in Beaujolais). The wine finished fermenting in open-topped vessels and aged 15 months in neutral French oak barriques. Deep ruby in color, with aromas of blackberry, black currant, cherry pie, violets, licorice, tapenade and hints of red fruits like raspberry. Silky and voluptuous, without excessive grip or rusticity to the tannins. Modest alcohol and some notes of leather and wild herbs on the finish. Pair with wine-braised chicken, grilled sausages, or soy-glazed salmon over lentils.