Brezza, Barolo Cru “Sarmassa”
The ultra-traditional estate of Brezza has been tending vines in and around the commune of Barolo, from which the region’s famous wines all take their name, since 1885. Indeed, along with their very old school cellar they also own and operate the Hotel Barolo, near the center of town. Their elegant, aromatic style which emphasizes balance over brute power fell out of fashion during the late ‘90s/early aughts obsession with high-octane richness, but in the last decade or so they’ve steadily returned to the limelight as beacons of purity and terroir transparency.
Now, with fourth-generation cousins Enzo and Giacomo at the helm, they are well-positioned to continue leading the pack in producing beautifully balanced, age-worthy Barolo. All farming is organic, long macerations are the standard, and aging is done only in large oak botti. The 2019s are the perfect calling card for this estate and should be considered a must-have for any Nebbiolo lover.
The Sarmassa vineyard has more clay in the soil than Cannubi, and less sand. ‘This cru sits on the opposite side of the main Barolo ridge from Cannubi, and yet it has a distinct microclimate…it is the first area where snow melts in the winter. Altitudes range from 250 to 300 meters (820 to 980 feet), and plant ages range between twelve and seventy years old.’ The wines grown here are more structured than those from Cannubi; the vineyard is not as well known as Cannubi.