Brovia, Barolo Classico DOCG
Today, the Brovia estate is run by fourth-generation sisters, Cristina and Elena Brovia, along with Elena’s husband, Alex Sanchez. The family’s pride is its enviable collection of top vineyard sites, all of them organically farmed and most located in the village of Castiglione Falletto: Perhaps the best-known is “Villero,” a southwest-facing cru known for powerful, brooding wines, but there’s also the well-known “Rocche” and “Garblèt Sué” (a.k.a. “Bricco Fiasco”) sites. In the village of Serralunga, the Brovias farm a piece of the “Brea” vineyard, called “Ca’Mia,” and the family bottles their four individual “crus” separately and releases them as the estate’s premium-priced, top wines. They also produce an iconic blend, or “Classico,” and a whole range of more entry level wines that all seek to showcase the special terroir of the family’s vineyards.
Brovia’s “Classico” bottling is a blend of the younger vines from the above vineyards, made with the same exacting methods and attention to terroir transparency. It is a perfect snapshot of the vintage in Castiglione Falletto writ large, and can be enjoyed on the younger side, though it will also greatly benefit from a few years in the cellar. If you open it sooner rather than later, be sure to give it a good 30-45 minute decant, and serve at cellar temperature of about 60 degrees in a large Burgundy stem. This monumental 2019 Barolo erupts from the glass with black plum, black cherry, red currant, wet rose blossoms, sweet red tobacco, toasted black truffles and white pepper. Its refined fruit and cascading tannins are seemingly designed to access every corner of one’s palate. Pair with a simple, but delicious, meal of wild mushroom risotto and you’ll be in a cozy, very happy place.