Mas Martinet “Clos Martinet”, Priorat, Spain
Despite its ancient Roman history, Priorat wine in the modern era was largely forgotten, and its vineyards mostly abandoned, until a handful of producers led a comeback. In 1979, René Barbier, a native of Tarragona, convinced a band of like-minded aspirants to join him in exploring the rocky bluffs of Priorat. Having trained in Burgundy and worked in Alsace and Bordeaux, Barbier introduced the concept of the clos (small, enclosed, walled-in vineyard) and soon this handful of dreamers had their own mini-estates bearing names Clos Mogador, Clos Erasmus, Clos de l’Obac and Clos Martinet. José Luiz Pérez was one of Barbier’s original Priorat crew and he established Mas Martinet in 1989. “Clos Martinet” is the flagship wine from their 15-hectare estate in the village of Gratallops. Since 2001, Sara Pérez has managed all activity and guided their entire estate holdings to fully organic viticulture since 2008.
2007 was a ripe, powerful vintage in Priorat, but true to form the Clos Martinet was able to balance the raw intensity with structure and finesse. Now firmly in its peak drinking window, a brief decant off any sediment is recommended, then serve at around 60 degrees in your best Bordeaux stem. Clearly Grenache forward, this powerhouse will open quickly with gobs of spiced cherries, brambleberry, red plums, licorice, black peppercorn, lavender, leather, and forest floor. This is a must have experience for lovers of robust, spice-driven, old-world styled reds.