Mastroberardino, “Mastro” Greco Online now

Mastroberardino, “Mastro” Greco

Italian wine-watchers have been saying this for a while: Whites from Campania’s native Greco grape are Italy’s answer to Chablis, with similar aging potential. I mostly agree, but I’ve tasted way too many Grecos that were prematurely oxidized (a problem that bedevils many white Burgundies, too) to fully sign on. But then along comes this bottle-aged (and bargain-priced) example from Mastroberardino and I’m re-evaluating my position. Full of bright, fresh fruit and mineral grip, this is an invigorating, still-evolving white that landed me back in the Greco cheering section.

The only way to explain how we came to offer this wine, at this price, is that Italian white wine is almost exclusively thought of as “early drinking,” regardless of grape variety. But the 2017 “Mastro”—not even the top Greco in the Mastroberardino lineup, mind you—will change your tune. Despite its modest price, this has a lot more dimension than your typical summer “quaffer,” while delivering the level of refreshment and mineral twang Greco is famous for. There is a lot going on here for less than $20, which is just the way we like it!

Then there’s that name on the label: Mastroberardino. This is not merely the “first family” of Campanian wine but one of the most iconic wine estates in all of Italy. It dates to the 1750s, but the important history for our purposes is post-World War II, when the vineyards of Campania (and most of the Italian south) were in bad shape, thanks to a toxic mix of phylloxera, financial hardship, and war. Brothers Antonio and Walter Mastroberardino revived the family business by acquiring the best vineyards they could find and, unlike many of their competitors, by remaining focused on the “big three” native grape varieties of the region: Greco, Fiano, and Aglianico. These are the heritage grapes of Campania, likely named and classified by Roman agricultural writers like Pliny the Elder, and for many years, Mastroberardino was really the first and last word on them. Since then, of course, the market has fleshed out considerably, so there isn’t just one place to look for a good Greco (including the estate Walter Mastroberardino went on to found, Terredora).

The three appellation wines for which Mastroberardino is famous—Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino, and Taurasi—are all clustered in Irpinia, about 60 kilometers inland from Naples. Irpinia is the start of the climb into the Campanian Apennines, with vineyard altitudes typically averaging around 400 meters in thickly forested hillside sites (chestnut groves are another key feature of the region). The soils are a mix of calcareous (i.e. limestone) marls and volcanic deposits, especially tuff, or tufo, which is so prevalent it lends its name to the anchor town of the Greco di Tufo appellation.

For the “Mastro” label, the Mastroberardinos opt for a more panoramic view of their extensive vineyard holdings in the region, labeling the wine with a broader “Campania” designation. The terroir of the source vineyards is described as more skewed toward limestone marl, and the vinification is straightforward and simple, with only a brief aging period in tank before bottling. The freshness has been beautifully preserved, even as the wine has put on a little weight and added some deeper, more mature fruit notes. In the glass, it’s a medium straw-gold moving to a silver-flecked rim, with bright aromas of yellow apple, pear, citrus peel, a hint of mango, white flowers, crushed chalk, and wet stones. It is medium-bodied but creeping toward medium plus, with lots of lip-smacking minerality on the finish. It’s in a perfect place for enjoying now, so grab a handful of bottles and the freshest seafood you can find and have at it! Cheers!