Montevertine, “Le Pergole Torte” MAGNUM Online

Montevertine, “Le Pergole Torte” MAGNUM

Perhaps all I really need to say is “Le Pergole Torte.” But what fun would that be? This is probably the single greatest expression of Tuscany’s Sangiovese grape and undoubtedly a wine that ranks among the world’s very best—including, I must add, Premier/Grand Cru Burgundies costing many multiples more. It has an aristocratic pedigree, unrivaled longevity, a legendary cast of characters behind it, and one of the most artful labels ever to grace a bottle, but I think what I love best about it is that it comes from Radda, in the heart of Chianti. 

First released in 1977, from a high-elevation vineyard planted in 1968, this is the stuff of multi-vintage “vertical” tastings and breathless anticipation from the critics. Regardless of vintage, this Tuscan icon melds power and finesse the way great red Burgundy does, demonstrating as well as any red out there that massive extract and tannin are not the key to a long life in the cellar. 

There are just three reds produced at Montevertine, all of them riffs on Sangiovese from different vineyards on the 18-hectare property, which was originally purchased by steel magnate Sergio Manetti as a country retreat. Upon acquiring the land in 1967, Manetti began planting vineyards straight away, taking advice from his childhood friend, Giulio Gambelli, who was one of Tuscany’s most celebrated winemakers. Gambelli was the acknowledged master of the Sangiovese grape, known for his keen palate, and, along with cellarmaster Bruno Bini, comprised Manetti’s Tuscan Dream Team. When they released the first vintage of Le Pergole Torte in 1977, Manetti commissioned modern artist Alberto Manfredi for the labels, which still feature his images today.

From the beginning, Manetti was focused keenly on Sangiovese—at a time when the laws in the Chianti Classico DOCG required that the wines be blends. Wanting to make a “varietal” Sangiovese, Manetti long ago abandoned any use of Chianti terminology on the labels; the 100% Sangiovese Le Pergole Torte carried the humble vino da tavola (table wine) designation for many years until it was switched to the Toscana I.G.T. (Indicazione Geografica Tipica) classification.

After Sergio Manetti passed away in 2000, his son, Martino, took up the reins of the estate. Since then, he’s navigated his way through the losses of Bruno Bini and Giulio Gambelli. Both men are still referenced on the wine’s label, along with enologist Paolo Salvi, a Gambelli protégé who has not missed a beat in maintaining the house style.

Le Pergole Torte is fermented in concrete vats, using only ambient yeasts, then aged for a year in Slavonian oak botti and another year in French oak barriques before bottling. Aromatically, this wine is always one of the most exquisitely perfumed examples of Sangiovese in existence: In the glass, it’s a deep ruby-red with garnet reflections, with dazzlingly complex aromas of ripe black cherry, red and black plum, violets, tobacco leaf, crushed rocks, leather, rose petals, and wild herbs. The intensity and focus is just incredible—it’s not a big, chunky wine but rather a lithe, sinewy wine that thrums with energy. It needs at least an hour in a decanter to unwind if you choose to open a bottle now, otherwise expect a 20-year aging window at a minimum—so do consider stocking up if you’re able. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems with duck, quail, or any other game bird; this is the stuff unforgettable meals are made of!