Big Table Farm, “Wild Bee” Chardonnay For Cheap

Big Table Farm, “Wild Bee” Chardonnay

Big Table Farm is back! As most all of you know, Brian Marcy and Clare Carver lead the charge at this “Winery of the Year” estate and handcraft a star-studded cast of organic, ultra-pure Willamette Valley wines. Theirs are some of the hottest labels on the market right now, proven by consistently glowing reviews; the inability to keep anything other than the current vintage in stock; and the overwhelming number of sellout Pinot Noir offers on our site. But right now, it’s time to make way for the queen because Big Table’s 2020 “Wild Bee” is Chardonnay brilliance!

Driven by a core of soft minerality, judiciously influenced by French barrels, and loaded with creamy and vivacious orchard fruit, this transcends Burgundy and California comparisons—it’s in a class all its own! And so, today’s newly released gem further strengthens my belief that when it comes to a comprehensive expression of Willamette Chardonnay, Big Table Farm is leading the way. There is no artifice or insincerity here, and the only bull-you-know-what you’ll find is used as fertilizer from their own herd of cattle. Bottom line: If you’re after aromatically pure, generous, soul-stirring Chardonnay from the heart of pastoral Oregon, this is it. Like everything they make, quantities are limited: Even with our close relationship, securing just 15 cases was a mighty tall order! 

With previous positions at high-profile Napa wineries like Marcassin and Blankiet Estate, Brian Marcy is no stranger to the spotlight. But, when Clare wanted to expand their “farm”—which in 2005 consisted of chickens running amok in the backyard of their small home—they jointly agreed to move away from Napa Valley’s exorbitantly priced real estate and try their luck in Oregon. They found solace an hour’s drive from Portland, in the small town of Gaston, ideally wedged between the sub-AVAs of Chehalem Mountain and Yamhill-Carlton District. They realized their dream in short order and now the 70 acres surrounding their 1890s-era farmhouse are replete with livestock, crops, beehives, and grapevines. They grow and raise everything—truly, this is a full-fledged self-sustaining farm.

But we’re not here to buy meat, honey, or produce (not today, anyway) so let’s get to the wine: Their “Wild Bee” Willamette Valley Chardonnay bottling pulls from each of the seven Chardonnay sites they work with stationed in the central and northern sections of the valley. Brian’s philosophy for his regional bottlings is a much-needed breath of fresh air: “It would be arrogant of me to think I could predict which fruit will turn into the best wine,” he says, “so I treat all with equal diligence.” After hand harvesting, the fruit ferments via ambient yeasts in mostly neutral French barrels and, after several months of aging, is transferred into a stainless steel blending tank for a couple of days. Minimal sulfur is used throughout. It is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and each hand-applied label is designed by Clare—except for this one! This special, charcoal drawing was designed by another sensational artistic talent, April Coppini. 

It’s worth reiterating that this cuvée is barely over a year old and was crafted without formulas and computers, so if you want to fully enjoy “Wild Bee” right now, a 30-minute decant and a large Burgundy stem is the best path forward. Still, there’s no denying the purity, vibrancy, and generosity of Big Table’s 2020 Chardonnay at this early stage: On the nose, it unfurls with citrus blossoms, sliced pear, yellow peach, green apple skin, lees, salt-preserved lemon, wet stone, crystallized ginger, and vanilla bean. The medium-bodied palate boasts superb tension and invigorating acidity that gently slices through broad, delicately ripe layers of orchard fruit. This is one of the great Chardonnay values, domestic or international, and it’s delivered at a price everyone can afford. Enjoy now and over the next three years. Cheers!