Bodega Lanzaga, Rioja
You won’t find Bodega Lanzaga in the ancient archives of Rioja winemaking, but owner Telmo Rodríguez is certainly an indomitable force in the region’s contemporary “revival” movement. He and his longtime friend/business partner Pablo Eguzkiza set out in the 1990s to instill the traditional spirit back into the region by revitalizing ancient vineyards through organic farming and practicing natural, low-intervention winemaking in the cellar. Today’s “Lanzaga” is the backbone and driving force of his bodega in the town of Lanciego.
This Tempranillo blend powers out of the glass with panache and grace, releasing rich, deeply accented aromas of crushed berries, dried black cherry skin, cassis, vanilla bean, exotic spices, clay, charred meat, plum sauce, wild herbs, and mushroom stock. The palate introduces lush, sanded-down tannins and plump, prismatic berry fruit. It’s muscular and opulent at once, gushing dark layers of finely crushed minerality, sweet-and-sour cherry, and smoky undertones of earth. We see this evolving well beyond its 10th birthday but the bulk of aging has been done for you: this masterwork is ready for immediate enjoyment should you get the itch. Keep the drinking temperature around 60 degrees for one of the greatest contemporary examples of Rioja money can buy.