Brovia, Barbera d’Alba, “Sorì del Drago” Online now

Brovia, Barbera d’Alba, “Sorì del Drago”

Brovia’s pride is a small collection of vineyards in Barolo’s villages of Serralunga d’Alba and Castiglione Falletto. Among their top holdings is a parcel of the “Garblet Sue” (or “Fiasco”) vineyard, one of the region’s most coveted and expensive. But, while their neighbors in this vineyard plant every square inch to Nebbiolo for high priced Barolo cuvées, the Brovia family leaves much of theirs planted to Nebbiolo’s less expensive/prestigious little sister, Barbera. Fruit from these 45 year old vines is pressed into stainless steel tanks where juice rests for 18 months before being bottled, completely unfiltered. In eschewing oak and heavy-handed winemaking, this nakedly simple vinification process preserves the purity of the Barbera’s fruit and floral character, while highlighting the minerality and complexity of the unique soil in which it’s planted. And truly, it tastes exactly like what it is: world class Barbera planted in Barolo. It’s a wonderful wine.

In the glass the 2020 Brovia Barbera d’Alba “Sori del Drago” is concentrated and opaque purple moving to a crimson rim. On the palate it is the quintessence of Barbera: tart cherries and juicy plums with appetite whetting acidity and an invigorating, lip-smacking finish. The wine’s strongest suit, however, is it’s brilliant and vivid aromatics: violets, white pepper, red fruits, and wild herbs.  I advise decanting the wine for 1 hour before serving in a large Burgundy stem at 55 degrees alongside braised bone-in meats and tomato-less pasta preparations.