Brovia, Barolo “Rocche di Castiglione”
Today, the Brovia estate is run by fourth-generation sisters, Cristina and Elena Brovia, along with Elena’s husband, Alex Sanchez. The family’s pride is its enviable collection of top vineyard sites, all of them organically farmed and most located in the village of Castiglione Falletto: Perhaps the best-known is “Villero,” a southwest-facing cru known for powerful, brooding wines, but there’s also the well-known “Rocche” and “Garblèt Sué” (a.k.a. “Bricco Fiasco”) sites. In the village of Serralunga, the Brovias farm a piece of the “Brea” vineyard, called “Ca’Mia,” and the family bottles their four individual “crus” separately and releases them as the estate’s premium-priced, top wines. They also produce an iconic blend, or “Classico,” and a whole range of more entry level wines that all seek to showcase the special terroir of the family’s vineyards.
“Rocche di Castiglione,” is arguably the most finessed and approachable of the three wines, hailing from a site that faces southeast and sits at an altitude of about 350 meters. The 1.5 hectare Brovia site has a sandier composition than many sites in Castiglione Falletto, which may account for its more refined tannins. Even so it is still one for the cellar, and ideally you hold it for at least five years before popping the cork, but with proper age and/or aeration it will blossom into a truly captivating wine. After a good decant, serve cool in a large Burgundy stem and you’ll enjoy the full spectrum of sweet cherries, wild strawberries, rosewater, lavender, white pepper, clove, cinnamon, and earthy, damp forest floor. Serve it alongside the classic, uber-traditional Piemontese braised beef recipe above and you’ll instantly be transported to a trattoria in Alba, andiamo!