Les Gryphées, Moulin-à-Vent, Cru Beaujolais For Cheap

Les Gryphées, Moulin-à-Vent, Cru Beaujolais

The Gamays of Beaujolais are threatening to topple the Pinot Noirs of the Côte d’Or and become the kings of Burgundy—at this price point especially, they’ve already captured the throne

The father-son team of Pierre and Guillaume Durdilly currently farm about 35 acres of vineyards in Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgon, and Moulin-à-Vent, where the estate is headquartered. The name “Les Gryphées” is derived  from the ancient marine fossils (gryphées) found in some of their vineyards, where the family first started crafting estate-bottled wines in the 1970s. What stands out about these wines is their incredible detail and purity—these truly are wines that are “grown” rather than made, with fermentations carried out in stainless steel or cement and aging done in large, neutral oak foudre barrels. It’s really all about viticulture for these guys, who plant beneficial herbs between the vine rows to combat erosion and pests and eschew chemical treatments in favor of organic ones.

 A fine-tuned, high-toned, wildly aromatic expression of Gamay grown on granite. It shines a bright ruby-garnet in the glass, with aromas reminiscent of a basket-full of woodland berries: black and red raspberries, sour cherry, currants, damp violets, pekoe tea, underbrush, and crushed rocks. It is medium-bodied, with a silken elegance not always found in the ripe, chunky recent vintages of Cru Beaujolais; the balance and perfume are impeccable, and the combination of refinement and refreshment is as good as it gets! Decant this 30 minutes before serving in Burgundy stems at 55-60 degrees and try your best to take your time with it.