Lussier, “Côte de Boont” Pinot Noir
Although we’re not bookmakers around here, we’re betting large on Lussier by calling today’s 2019 “Côte de Boont” the most exciting Pinot Noir debut of 2021. We say this knowing full well the year is young, so scribble it on a Post-it, have Siri remind you, do whatever’s necessary to remember our bold claim by year’s end. Just know, it’s going to be extraordinarily tough to outclass this rare discovery.
And it’s not because a mere five barrels were produced, or that there’s hardly a soul in the world privy to today’s inaugural release. It’s all about the wine itself: This is a perfectly sculpted, breathtakingly elegant Pinot Noir sourced from two organic vineyards in the isolated, high-elevation woods of Northern California. It’s that simple. What’s more, if it wasn’t for a friend of a friend turning us onto Lussier, this brand new label would’ve slipped by unnoticed for who knows how long—as they say, “it’s not what you know but who you know.” This is a sure-fire $39 opportunity for anyone who intends on savoring the most exquisite and highly aromatic Pinot Noirs of the world, and if quantities weren’t so painfully limited, our entire wine team would be lining up to place case purchases.
From combat tours in the sweltering Middle East to touring cool-climate vineyards in Anderson Valley, it’s safe to say GW Lussier began a drastic career in 2015. Having left the military and returned to California, his first foray into wine was an internship with Palhmeyer, which then led to a gig with famed Williams Selyem. What do you do after working with some of the world’s greatest Pinot Noirs? Try your own hand, of course! So, Lussier looked north to Mendocino, specifically high-elevation sites in Anderson Valley, and released his first eponymous label in 2020.
“Côte de Boont” hails from two cool, breezy, organically farmed vineyards known as Roma and Golden Fleece. Roma sits on a ridge perched nearly 2,000 feet above sea level and Golden Fleece is about 1,000 feet high with steep inclines that force 100% manual work. In the cellar, Lussier intervenes as little as possible: The hand-harvested fruit fermented on native yeasts with 25% whole clusters, and aged for 11 months in five French barrels, one of which was new. “Côte de Boont” comes from a cryptic jargon/language endemic to the citizens of Boonville, California, a small town in the heart of Anderson Valley.
After a 15-30 minute decant, you’ll find Lussier’s 2019 “Côte de Boont” is superbly elegant and pure, a seamless example of authentic, low-intervention California Pinot Noir. It releases jaw-dropping, highly perfumed aromas of crushed rose petal, wild strawberry, licorice, raspberry coulis, black cherry, wild plum skin, pulverized stone, damp clay, and a hint of clove and cinnamon. The palate is medium-bodied, buoyant, and incredibly supple—one can expect layers of just-ripened forest berries, hints of crushed minerals, and a crunchy/savory edge. It is Pinot Noir perfection! Enjoy now in your largest Burgundy stems around 60 degrees or a touch cooler, and save your other 11 bottles (yes, you should splurge on a case) for consumption over the next 2-5 years. Don’t sleep in this stunning Anderson Valley discovery!