Moric, “Haus Marke” Red Blend
As you may have noticed lately, we’ve been trying to make Austrian red wines a “thing.” Results have been mixed so far, even though all the components are there: distinctive character, superb quality, amazing value. If you love Cru Beaujolais, you will love today’s wine, and if you spend any time in good wine bars or restaurants, you may well have heard of Roland Velich and Moric.
Velich was just on a barnstorming tour of the US, in fact, hosting wine dinners, appearing on podcasts, and otherwise spreading the word about his home region, Burgenland, and its native grapes—especially the red Blaufränkisch. At the higher end, Velich has a series of alte reben (“old vine”) reds to rival Grand Cru red Burgundy, while today’s Hause Marke (“house brand”) is the kind of bright, berry-fruited, entry-level red you hope to find on the by-the-glass list at your favorite local haunt. As besotted as I am with Cru Beaujolais right now, I’m lately reaching for the likes of Hause Marke first: The fruit is a little darker, the texture a little plumper, but the minerality and refreshing tension remain. A man my age should not be saying words like “yummy,” but there you have it: This tangy, delicious red will do that!