Paolo Bea, Montefalco Rosso Riserva “Pipparello” For Cheap

Paolo Bea, Montefalco Rosso Riserva “Pipparello”

Bea needs no introduction: Whether it’s the powerhouse “Pagliaro,” the ultimate expression of Montefalco’s Sagrantino grape, or this “Pipparello,” a classic Montefalco Rosso DOC blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, and Montepulciano, these are sought-after collectibles that don’t show up much on retail shelves. The Bea family’s history in the Montefalco area dates to the 1500s, but only in the last 20 years or so have their wines really blown up on the international stage. 

The “Pipparello” Riserva 2018  is named for a hilltop vineyard parcel perched at 1,300 feet, in soils of clay and gravel. Vines in the site average about 20 years of age and the harvest is typically carried out in mid-October. Comprised mostly of Sangiovese with a balance of Montepulciano, and Sagrantino, this is a riserva-level bottling subjected to a long cuvaison (fermentation in contact with the skins/solids) of 40-50 days, which lends the wine its powerful structure. It’s a deep garnet-red in the glass, a brooding melding of red and black fruits and loamy earth. Scents of sappy black cherry, cassis, mulberry, leather, dark spice, and turned earth carry over to a taut, medium-plus-bodied palate. Even at five years of age, it shows best after an hour or so in a decanter paired with a hearty grilled or roasted meat dish.