Pierre Péters, Grand Cru “Les Montjolys” Cuvée Spéciale
To close out 2022’s tremendous array of Champagnes, I felt shooting for the moon was necessary. And so, it is with great pleasure to offer you not one but two vintages of Pierre Péters thunderous and exceptionally rare “Les Montjolys.” I’ll be the first to say this is far from affordable, but when you’re discussing it alongside Champagne’s cultiest Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, one must reasonably ask: Is Salon worth 3x more? Is Krug’s Clos du Mesnil worth 6x more? Although I’d never turn either of those down, I think not, especially when considering Antonio Galloni has already called Montjolys the “single most impressive Champagne from Rodolphe Péters.”
Keep in mind, that’s against some incredible competition like their universally worshiped “Les Chétillons” and $500+ “L’Etonnant Monsieur Victor” bottlings. Wondering why “Montjolys” is so special? This Grand Cru parcel lies right below the legendary Chétillons vineyard; Rodolphe only selects the purest/best 10% of juice; and this ’14 aged over seven years before a micro-release that will never exceed 165 cases. I’ve now tasted three of the four total releases, and the astounding length, richness, and nuanced depth of each has absolutely shattered my expectations. We are further sweetening today’s thrilling offer with a price that falls below the few others fortunate enough to be retailing it. Despite receiving the single-largest allocation in America (one of the perks of being a free subscriber!), I still only have a few cases of this 2014 to share. Three-bottle max, free shipping on one.
\r\n
BONUS: I was also given restricted access to Pierre Péter’s just-released 2015. Secure one or two bottles here.
Many may be surprised to learn the village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger was only elevated to Grand Cru status in 1985, but by then it was a simple formality because most vignerons were already in agreement that this was one of the finest terroirs in all of Champagne. The Péters were among them: They’ve been cultivating and selling their crop here since 1858; were among the very first grower-producers in 1919; and they’ve owned a piece of the renowned “Les Chétillons” since 1931. Today, Rodolphe Péters, grandson of Pierre, runs the historic show and has further elevated their brand to “cult” status.
\r\n
“Montjolys” doesn’t just reside within the Grand Cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, it’s just a few minutes’ walk south of “Chétillons” and holds denser, deeper chalky clay soils. Rodolphe’s seven distinct parcels produce wonderful phenolic ripeness and concentration while retaining sensational levels of acidity. The handpicked fruit is shuttled to their cellar to undergo a masterclass in precise winemaking: Parcel-specific fermentations occur with partial malolactic and when it comes time for blending, only the best base wine (<10%) is chosen. Once bottling, it’s sent to slumber in their old chalk cellar for 6-7 years of lees aging. This parcel of 2014 was disgorged in 2022 and given a dosage of approximately four grams.
\r\n
While buying both vintages on offer would be a sage move, I understand that’s price prohibitive so for those who want a riper, rounder, more supple style, go for the 2015 vintage. Those who want a more tense and mineral-dominant experience, go for the 2014. This is a nervy and taut Grand Cru champagne that requires at least an hour to open before fully revealing high-toned swells of white and yellow flowers, marzipan, baked bread, crushed hazelnut, pure chalk, oyster shell, lanolin, white peach, Anjou pear, Makrut lime blossoms, confit lemon, and kisses of exotic spice. Please, do not open after a night of drinking has started! Give it ample air, a slightly warmer temperature, and a calm environment where its nuances can be studied and savored. Try to save some for day two, as well. Enjoy this rarity. It should age gracefully for 10, 15, even 20 more years.